Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and visitors alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, Unesco recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a select list of global cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it joins a global network of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "stands as proof of its centuries-old culinary traditions and dynamic food ecosystem," according to a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this venerable city comes as no surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the global gaze for what has consistently defined its heart: an profound love for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a ongoing discussion from morning until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, refined, and taken to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases local ingredients but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on many street corners, there are little shops and carts – hidden treasures that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and involved. The vendor beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but say that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will inspire more people globally to discover these stories and visit the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
